Bonus-malus towards “fast fashion”, inexperienced or “anti-poor” invoice? | EUROtoday

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In order to battle towards the behemoths of “fast fashion” and “ultra-fast fashion”, together with the Chinese firm Shein, LR MP Antoine Vermorel-Marques tabled a invoice aimed toward including a penalty of 5 euros for any merchandise bought from these manufacturers. A measure introduced as ecological and protectionist, which didn’t fail to impress a response, significantly on social networks the place an “injustice” concentrating on “the poor” was denounced.

“Too hot, too classy!”, quips on TikTok Antoine Vermorel-Marques, LR deputy, presenting sneakers from an alleged Shein order [prononcé chi’ ine]“treated with phthalate, a substance which is an endocrine disruptor which can make us all infertile”.

In this video posted on younger folks's favourite social community, Antoine Vermorel-Marques parodies “haul”, quite common movies on the accounts of trend and sweetness influencers wherein the latter unpack their freshly delivered packages and current to their neighborhood the gadgets bought (or supplied freed from cost by the model), to advertise them. The goal of the Loire MP's video: to introduce the invoice he has simply tabled within the National Assembly to fight “fast fashion”.

The textual content, which will likely be debated subsequent spring in Parliament, goals to help the French textile trade within the face of the specter of “fast fashion” and offers for this to impose a penalty of 5 euros for any merchandise bought on websites that includes on-line greater than 1,000 fashions per day.

A really widespread development within the trend trade, “fast fashion” (“rapid fashion”, in French) relies on an ultra-rapid renewal of collections primarily based on a frantic tempo of manufacturing. Produced at a decrease value – common value of an merchandise bought by Shein: 7 euros – this “disposable” trend has, as Oxfam France factors out, “disastrous social and environmental consequences”.

If many manufacturers are involved, Antoine Vermorel-Marques is particularly concentrating on the Asian group Shein, (created in China and primarily based in Singapore) which, with 6,000 to 11,000 new fashions added each day to its on-line catalog, is even flying within the class of “ultra-fast fashion”, often singled out for the environmental, climatic and social penalties of its financial mannequin, and for “destroying the French textile industry”.

However, barely tabled, the invoice has provoked the ire of many customers, for whom this penalty system can be simply one other tax put in place by France, penalizing above all small budgets keen on the proposed service. by the world chief in low-cost ready-to-wear on-line.

“Another step towards injustice”

“If a French MP doesn't invent a tax, does he have a guarantee?” mocks a person of 'costume and there's a clear sweep', we are able to nonetheless learn.

By providing skirts, tops, pants and equipment of all types for lower than 10 euros, Shein – and others Temu, Boohoo, and so on. – seduces and fills the cabinets of an increasing number of customers every year.

“In France, there is a gap between our convictions, the awareness that we must make efforts, and the acceptability of the measures taken in the name of these issues”, analyzes Cécile Désaunay, director of research for Futuribles, a consultancy agency. potential the place it analyzes transformations in society, life and consumption.

In this logic, she says, reactions to the proposal to introduce a “tax” on the acquisition of merchandise from “fast fashion” websites appear pores and skin deep “because it affects what is considered freedom to consume, and overall you should not touch it.

However, recalls the analyst, there is a “bonus” dimension to this measure which is to make sustainable clothing accessible.

In an interview with Usbek&Rica, Antoine Vermorel-Marques explained how this bonus works. While a penalty of 5 euros would be added to the purchase of an item on a “fast fashion” site, “on the contrary, [si] you buy a T-shirt that respects our environment, produced in France or in Europe, you have a bonus of 5 euros maximum”, he explains. “The key is that it is not an additional tax . We're not coming to take your money. We just come to tell you: 'If you pollute, you pay. If you don't pollute, you win.' As a result, it’s a win-win for both the consumer and the planet.”

“You don't even perceive that it's not a 'tax', Shein, Ali merchandise[Express], and so on. are already taxed, there we’re speaking a few penalty to penalize those that participate in “fast fashion”, and by extension in human overexploitation and the rise in waste”, we are able to learn on this sense on the account of 'an X person.

“This is not the first time that we have used this type of lever,” explains Cécile Désaunay, evoking particularly the bonus system utilized to the auto sector in France, but in addition the discount in VAT utilized by Sweden for repairing objects.

Also, if the analyst admits the necessity to costume, she factors out the intense posture adopted by many customers (particularly younger folks) who purchase many extra garments than vital, with low costs encouraging overconsumption.

A worker making clothes in a factory that supplies the Shein brand [prononcé chi'ine]a Chinese company "fast fashion" online, in Guangzhou, July 18, 2022.
A employee makes garments at a manufacturing facility that provides the Shein model, a Chinese on-line “fast fashion” firm, in Guangzhou, southern China's Guangdong province, July 18, 2022. © Jade Gao, AFP

“I am poor, but I have values”

“Before, the norm was to have fewer clothes, but which lasted longer. We paid more for them, but we made them last,” she explains. “Today, we have moved away from this logic: we have less sturdy clothes, which last less long, and we are getting used to always having more because they cost less.”

If some folks say on social networks: “Fast fashion for some, the only way to dress for others”, different customers don’t see it that method. “I am poor, but as I have values ​​I do not order from these sites! You can be poor and have values!!”.

On this level, Cécile Désaunay evokes a form of “enclosure which would consist of thinking that to be able to dress cheaply, one must necessarily buy clothes made in China, as if there were no alternative”, she says. , evoking particularly the second-hand market, to which she devoted an article on the Futuribles web site.

“The challenge in the textile field is rather that associations and other recycling centers are drowning in clothing,” factors out the specialist. “Given the volume of clothing that there is already on the planet, if we stop making clothes, we can still clothe humanity for a hundred years,” she continues. A phenomenon already talked about by Catherine Dauriac and Isabelle Brokman within the e-book “Fashion, fake or not?”, which deciphers the polluting trade of the style sector.

However, “paradoxically, buying second-hand can still be frowned upon, or even rejected by the poorest categories” notes Cécile Désaunay, who evokes the social stigma that this market can generate.

At the top of 2023, Shein had a 13% market share in worth in its sector in France, forward of Vinted, a well-known model promoting second-hand clothes, which occupies first place among the many French's favourite trend manufacturers, in accordance with a report from the Joko procuring software created for LSA journal.

“We are reaching the end of the logic of 'fast fashion'”, believes Cécile Désaunay. The bonus-malus proposal should nonetheless be debated; and whether or not it’s adopted or not, it’s, in accordance with the analyst, “a pretext to re-examine the value of the objects we buy.” Indeed, she says, “if it's not expensive, it's because there is a trade-off. In this case, the trade-off is environmental.”

“Fast fashion” manufacturers are often singled out for his or her environmental penalties (consumption of water, oil, chemical pollution for dyes), local weather (CO emissions).2) and social elements of their financial mannequin. The Friends of the Earth affiliation, which deciphered its operation, estimated the model's manufacturing at 1 million clothes produced per day, or between 15,000 and 20,000 tonnes of CO2 issued.

Far from solely concentrating on the Chinese firm, the affiliation explains that bodily manufacturers reminiscent of Zara, H&M, Primark and Uniqlo should not omitted. What they “do not do in terms of the quantity of models offered, they make up for in quantities produced, as well as in the exploitation of human rights”, she specifies, whereas these manufacturers have all been accused of profiting or of getting profited particularly from the compelled labor of Uighurs in China.

Read additionallyTen years after the Rana Plaza tragedy, quick trend continues to be responsible

In 2022, Shein will file some $23 billion in income, experiences the Wall Street Journal. For 2023, its turnover is estimated at practically 32 billion.