In Milan, the person of summer season 2025 is cautious of appearances, between false collars, false folds and dreamed lives | EUROtoday

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HAS Milan, style hardly ever forgets the performance of clothes. It's not a foul phrase and it doesn't at all times imply boredom. It may even be executed with humor and wit. The proof with “things seen”, typically in trompe-l'oeil and taking part in on appearances.

This will not be a belt…

…however an thought for a belt on high-waisted pants; this isn’t somewhat blue V-neck or burgundy sweater, however a knit with false pleats; this isn’t a polo shirt worn beneath a V-neck, it’s a single piece; this isn’t a derby however a slipper; This will not be a garment, it’s a Prada garment. Unless within the trompe l'oeil sport of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons for summer season 2025, it’s exactly the alternative: a approach of claiming “ultimately a garment – ​​including Prada – becomes a clothing as soon as it is worn, that we make it our own – and it’s all in the way of stylizing it, of suddenly playing with colors, volumes and lengths.” For a silhouette in this case all in stretched lengths. A way of also saying that the essential is always reinvented through details, side steps, styling so to speak. Prada is the art of contrapposto applied to fashion. Prada's desire is an intelligent desire.

Better than a simple fisherman

It's better than a fishing hat that rolls up and conceals a small pocket for your wallet. It is a style manifesto that resembles its author who willingly wears it, Satoshi Kuwata. We must remember this name which is not unknown to the fashion world: in 2023, he won the LVMH prize for young fashion designers with his brand Setchu – which, beyond the prize, allows him to be followed by Sophie Brocart, CEO of Patou and guardian angel of the Prize winners. This does not turn his head, any more than he has lost his poetry. The Japanese, based in Milan, knows how to build a wardrobe that already has its classics – like his suit jacket with marked folds reminiscent of origami and its new variation that can be folded in the Japanese style, without falling into folklore – but which never stops innovating – like with these cottons reworked in Como, these light denims.

All without giving up the obsession with cut and functionality, like this sleeveless sweatshirt which becomes a short t-shirt or scarf, or a jacket with a stand-up collar. All with a rare obsession with detail – from the seams of jeans to the trident stitching of the buttons of a printed shirt, the design of which itself narrates the fantastic samurai epic in Egypt… Not to mention this fishing hat – he is passionate about this sport and travels the planet with his canes – which speaks to the humor of this affable, laughing man, and let's admit he is terribly gifted. His presentation in Milan, in an art gallery where he was shooting his look book at the same time, was one of those moments that sometimes bring joy to fashion weeks.

Dream lives

Sometimes, fashion shows are simply a moment to share a daydream. Simon Holloway, artistic director of Dunhill, has made his a way of rereading the English novel Bridehead Revisited by Evelyn Waugh. And he says it, “ these are not clothes made for work, but clothes made for the leisure of a life well led »: and the models deploy a timeless wardrobe, for aristo-gentlemen, between jackets, badminton racket cases, while playing with their own identity, each model being designated by his name in the program – like here M. Roberto Sipos. All in the equally dreamed setting of a garden like only Milanese palaces know how to hide.
Another dream life, the dolce vita according to Tod's with the first men's collection presented by the new artistic director Matteo Tamburin, who takes advantage of the house's heritage of skins and the “fatto in Italia” for a wardrobe of impeccable necessities, together with denim and trench coats, with out forgetting equipment, with a suede backpack as a majesty. So every little thing may be very adoptable in “actual life”. It's higher this fashion.

Not only a case

This isn’t just an enormous glasses case created for a communications marketing campaign. It is among the 28 colourful potentialities of what’s changing into not solely the accent of summer season 2024 – and undoubtedly that of 2025 – but in addition the aesthetic attribute of what the honorable home of transalpine leather-based Valextra intends to change into, beneath the management of its CEO Xavier Rougeaux: a model that resonates with fashionable instances, and which additionally performs nicely on the standard of those particulars – from the zip closure of its classics introduced updated to “eco-friendly” nylon of its backpacks – that pleasure of the colour palette, to create a playful approach of luxurious, together with on small items of leather-based items and equipment, from the coloured pencil holder to the cocktail equipment imagined for the summer season of 2025 with the legendary Bar Basso in Milan, through this sun shades case that style addicts snap up and carry throughout their shoulders, like a trophy of the period. The operate of an object can be good…