From Dries Van Noten to Hermès through Loewe… We let you know about the perfect day of Fashion Week | EUROtoday

Get real time updates directly on you device, subscribe now.

IThe climate is sweet, the birds are singing and style is mild on this closing weekend of Men's Fashion Week presenting the collections for summer season 2025. The proof with Dries Van Noten, Loewe, Hermès: a blinding trifecta of panache, grace and intelligence of clothes.

The happiest of D-Days

June 22, 2024 was style's D-Day. Translate “Dries Day”, or the introduced day of Dries Van Noten’s final style present – a kind of cataclysm within the microcosm and for all those that love style. So all of them discovered themselves in La Courneuve, on this immense hangar which had served as a setting in 2004, twenty years in the past, at 50e designer parade. All ? the press, the veterans of Dries Van Noten, and an unprecedented aggregation of creators: Véronique Nichanian – simply out of her personal present –, Ann Demeulemeester and Walter van Beirendonck – her associates from the Antwerp gang –, in addition to Glenn Martens, Kris Van Assche, Haider Ackermann, Pierpaolo Piccioli, Diane von Fürstenberg and Stephen Jones.

Bowie sings…

Dries Van Noten's contribution to style can’t be summed up in a single style present, even when it have been the final. “There is neither beginning nor end,” confirms the echo of David Bowie, whose monologue on time served because the soundtrack to this ultimate assortment, because the fashions rush throughout a carpet of leaves. cash, twirling gently. And in a pleasant wink, the primary of them, Alain Gossuin, who had paraded for the primary assortment of the Antwerp designer in 1991. This 129e The present by no means had the style of a farewell, it was the celebration of a method and a technique which, over the many years, have made Dries Van Noten a legend of up to date style. A sort of proof, within the luxurious of the supplies, the assembly of organza, cashmere and silk, within the sartorial class which characterizes its silhouette, in its embroideries and prints which he has made certainly one of its most recognizable signatures. It's lovely, impressed, intimate, it's style however above all it's clothes.

…and Dries dances

And then, in a standard motion, the fashions got here again tumbling collectively, all generations mixed. And then Dries got here to greet, as common or virtually, a standing room solely. And out of the blue the again of the room opened: as a substitute of the screens which earlier than the present arrange a kind of retrospective in photographs, an enormous disco ball launched the celebration sign, between beer and fries, souvenirs and laughter, tears and dancing. We danced with Dries. Everything can cease.


No, it was not a sound recording however the chirps of actual sparrows heard this Saturday throughout the Loewe style present. After the knitted chicken on the shoulder seen throughout his own-name style present in Milan – piaf known as Emile, Jonathan Anderson spins the avian metaphor, remodeling the Battesti carousel of the Republican Guard right into a style aviary, the proof, once more, with the bronze chicks of the artist Paul Thek scattered in the midst of the scene. This sudden attraction of the Irish designer for ornithology additionally materialized on the catwalk, the place the fashions, their faces masked by a feather headdress, offered Loewe's spring-summer items: draped collars escaping from a superbly fitted blazer, skinny pants or quite the opposite all in quantity bordering on harem pants, variations of the biker leather-based jacket… A couture minimalism declined for males for which Jonathan Anderson holds the know-how, a intelligent stability of poetry and lightness which provides wings to the Loewe man.

To be good

After her present, Véronique Nichanian, inventive director of the lads's universe at Hermès, remarked to a couple journalists that she preferred to underline the spirit of the design of a print by having it proceed on the fashions' personal pores and skin, within the type of a tattoo. That's all its secret, all its concern: giving spirit to clothes, removed from any literalness. It performs on nothing (and all the pieces): the element of a pocket, a collar as if tied, the reduce of a jacket with no collar, the caress of a transparency, a sample which, out of the blue, appears to be the reminiscence of 'a drawing erased by the waves. There is a kind of reward of summer season abandonment, of evenings that drag on – and all the pieces is constructed, designed in order that this refined nonchalance has an air of obviousness.