Hotels, embassies, archaeological websites: issues from scribes | Culture | EUROtoday

Get real time updates directly on you device, subscribe now.

Temple of Athena near the Parthenon on the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.
Temple of Athena close to the Parthenon on the Acropolis, Athens, Greece.joe daniel value (Getty Images)

From the resort terrace you possibly can take pleasure in a panoramic view of Athens, which, from above, is a blanket of white. At one finish rises the Acropolis; within the distance, the Parthenon seems to be like a toy development. I really feel like Zeus-Laurence Olivier within the Wrath of the Titans Harryhaussen: the god manipulates human figures on a circle. Descending from the heights, Athens has different colors, sunburnt, worn, smelly. Cars invade very slim streets that result in Monastiraki with its outlets of rolled and stacked materials. I just like the litter, but in addition the octagonal stability of the Tower of the Winds. Cats in Plaka and the Central Market. The mild is so incisive that the images come out as if veiled. We vacationers put on caps and have a look at the homeless individuals of Athens who in Rodrigo Rey Rosa's novels are reincarnations of sophists. There is not any stylization, however respect for human beings within the period of the devaluation of social justice. Bolaño wrote of Rey Rosa: “Reading him is learning to write.”

Rodrigo prepares a go to to the Archaeological Museum for Sara Mesa and me. We are accompanied by the author and hellenist Pedro Olalla —his newest work is Words from the Aegean—and with him we share the enjoyment of studying by trying. When we ponder a murals, one thing touches our coronary heart past motive, however having context and information will increase the pleasures.

It is a privilege and as privileged beings we stroll by way of the rooms – some closed on account of lack of employees – and admire the smile of early y black; the pink lilies of the spring fresco relationship from the sixteenth century BC; the Venus calendars within the form of a frying pan—notches, vaginal openings, waves and winds—; the bronze Poseidon of Artemisium, whose serene management of a misplaced trident embodies an concept of ​​artwork alien to effort. In one other room, a baby rider with tense muscle tissues mounts his very quick horse. Venus additionally takes off her sandal to provide Pan a smack who’s getting annoying. Two writers, each women and men, go to an Archaeological Museum. I put myself within the place of this renewed populist Zeus for whom the favored looks like Instagram and I discover how fats we’re falling. The entrance to the Archaeological Museum ought to be cheaper, however sneakers, cucumber-cell telephones, Taylor Swift concert events, supposedly much less elitist, are rather more costly. At the house of the Spanish ambassador, a diner factors out that the wealthy in Greece are humiliated to queue in luxurious shops. I reply that it appears excellent to me. There aren’t any queues on the Archaeological Museum. Perhaps we don't know what luxurious is.

To shield ourselves from accusations of exclusivity – embassies, archaeologists, scribblers’ stuff – we eat in Exarchia, the anarchist district. There are monumental anti-capitalist graffiti, open-air cinemas, taverns, publishing homes and bookstores like Polyglot the place Konstantinos Paleologos presents his wonderful translation of Little Red Women. In Exarchia there may be nonetheless protest and revolt, a transgressive spirit, however in its personal manner it’s also pure glamour and is on the verge of being a complicated place like Malasaña or Trastevere. I went to Athens invited by LEA, a literary competition. Kostas, the competition taxi driver, explains to me that the phrase “taxi” comes from Greek and makes a revelation to me: “I don’t need to work. I’m rich.” I believe he’s joking. “I have 30 apartments in Athens. My monthly rent is 20,000 euros.” Pauper sophists in Syntagma Square, wealthy aspirants queuing up, revolutionaries in cans, taxi drivers working for sport, silent luxurious of true energy. Headache and taxi are phrases that come from Greek. Utopia and dystopia too.

All the tradition that goes with you awaits you right here.



The newest literary releases analysed by the perfect critics in our weekly publication


Subscribe to proceed studying

Read with out limits