What to see and do in Vannes in Brittany | EUROtoday

Think of a sea that is nearly totally surrounded by land and chances are high that your ideas will go to the Mediterranean. But deep within the south-east nook of Brittany lies a stunning different that packages out of doors actions, heritage websites and seaside surroundings into one neat bundle. Discover what to see in Vannes and what to see shut by…

Discover Vannes

The Gulf of Morbihan, from the Breton phrase for ‘little sea,’ is a tidal basin created 2,000 years in the past when the Atlantic Ocean surged into low-lying land by means of a niche within the shoreline. Today, this distinctive space of ​​saltwater covers 12,000 hectares, its tidal circulate reaching inland so far as Auray within the west and the walled metropolis of Vannes on the head of the Gulf.

I begin my exploration in Vannes, based by the Romans in 56BC as Darioritum after their victory over the Veneti. In the 5^th century AD, the city was renamed Venetis and the previous hilltop web site – at present’s district of St Patern – was deserted as a brand new city grew up inside fortifications. But it was within the Middle Ages that Vannes started to tackle its current side, and at present it’s one in every of Brittany’s most enchanting medieval cities with rampart walks, winding streets, and half-timbered buildings.

I’m booked into La Villa Garenne, (chambredhotes-vannes.fr) a trendy B&B in a 19^th century property with individually themed rooms. Located on a slim road main right down to the ramparts, the home is simply 150 meters stroll from the marina with a free public automobile park simply up the hill and the station a 15-minute stroll. With Paris solely two hours away by prepare, Vannes makes a lovely selection for a metropolis break with added coast.

What to see in Vannes

Tempting although it’s to dive straight into the walled metropolis – the Intra Muros – I head first by means of Place Gambetta to Quai Taberly beside the marina to go to the Tourist Office. Here you possibly can decide up maps and strolling routes in addition to guide guided visits or cruise excursions. The café-fringed semi-circle of Place Gambetta stands between the marina and Porte St Vincent, the city’s fundamental gate. But hug the japanese facet of the town partitions to benefit from the full-on impact of these spectacular ramparts. Built and rebuilt over a number of centuries, the present partitions and towers are largely from the 15^th to 17^th century and nearly three-quarters of the fortifications nonetheless stand.

The japanese and northern sections are essentially the most imposing, the view unfolding as you move Château de l’Hermine, as soon as owned by the Dukes of Brittany, and now standing proud above formal flowerbeds within the dry moat beside the Merle river. Keep to the pavement for a excessive stage view, or take the steps by the Poterne Gate to entry the restored 19^th century washhouse and the lawns and floral shows of the Garenne gardens beneath these lofty ramparts.

Turn left contained in the Prison Gate behind the Joliette Tour to entry the oldest a part of the town partitions, relationship from the three^rd century. Or simply observe the maze of winding streets. It’s not onerous to think about the medieval scene as you wander from one picturesque sq. to a different beneath half-timbered homes and slate roofs. Place Henri IV beneath the Cathedral is a photographer’s delight, while Place des Lices close to the ducal fortress now hosts the Wednesday and Saturday market, however was as soon as the city’s match venue.

Close to St Pierre Cathedral with its tall spire is La Cohue, named after the Breton phrase for ‘market’. In the 13^th century, stallholders folded their trades on the bottom flooring with the courtroom of justice – and later, the Breton Parliament – ​​upstairs. Today it homes the Museum of Fine Arts while Château Gaillard, a grand 15^th century stone home, is house to the Archaeological Museum.

Every flip reveals some new shock. Look out for the carved wood heads adorning home quantity 13 in Rue St Solomon, and do not miss ‘Vannes et sa femme’, two painted heads on the nook of Place Valencia, maybe a medieval advertising train for an area store.

Refuel at one in every of Vannes’ many eating places after which, in case you’re feeling energetic, possibly observe the strolling path from the marina in Vannes to the harbor at Conleau. Or take a cruise tour across the Gulf, maybe with a cease on the Ile d’Arz or Ile-aux-Moines.

What to see close to Vannes

For a unique perspective on this tranquil inland sea, I drive out of Vannes and down the japanese shore in direction of Sarzeau and the gorgeous Rhuys Peninsula that types the Gulf’s southern boundary. Boat excursions depart from Port-Navalho at its tip for Vannes, Auray and the offshore islands of Belle-Ile, Houat and Hoedic, or you possibly can merely watch the currents race by means of the slim channel into the Gulf.

Criss-crossed with strolling and biking trails, the Rhys Peninsula gives sheltered inward-facing seashores and a wilder, ocean-facing shore. I guide a keep on the close by Manoir de Kerbot, (hotelrestaurantkerbot.com) a 4-star nation resort with 9 bedrooms and spa, though sadly the gourmand restaurant is closed on Monday after I go to. But as an alternative I take pleasure in a scrumptious al fresco fish supper on the ocean coast at Côte Plage in Le Roaliguen.

Suscinio Castle

Next morning, I head again in direction of the Atlantic to go to the Domaine de Suscinio (suscinio.fr). Another former house of the Dukes of Brittany, this magnificent moated fortress with two enormous towers was constructed within the late 14^th century for Duke John IV on a big property created by the household within the early 13^th century.

A state-of-the-art des res with massive mullioned home windows and huge fireplaces for optimum mild and heat, the Logis Est or ‘Duke’s House’ even included a second-floor steam room. The Logis Ouest or ‘Marvellous Lodging’ was added by Duke John V to deal with essential company, however over the centuries, the fortress fell into disrepair.

Restoration started in earnest in 1965 when the property was bought by the Department of Morbihan, and in 2023, Suscinio unveiled a model new interactive customer expertise. The 12 months is 1450 and, with the assistance of video projections and replica furnishings, Isabella of Scotland, widow of Duke François I, guides guests across the ducal lodgings to witness negotiations for the wedding of Anne de Bretagne. Eight-year-old daughter of Duke François II, Anne would later grow to be Queen of France and thus deliver Brittany into the French kingdom.

Meanwhile, throughout the courtyard, Merlin the magician guides guests by means of the Logis Ouest to discover the story of King Arthur and his reputed hyperlinks with Brittany. Don’t miss the excessive stage view over courtyard, coast and countryside from the northern curtain wall, nor the character path across the Suscinio marsh. Once a pure safety for the fortress, at present the wetland is itself protected as a nature reserve wealthy in waterfowl. Two different trails supply fortress views, wildlife and historic background.

Visit between April and September to take a leisurely row across the fortress moat. And in July and August, take pleasure in a spectacular night present each Tuesday and Thursday when 800 years of historical past are projected on the fortress partitions, adopted by a spectacular firework show. The excellent finale to any ducal time out!

Useful web site: golfedumorbihan.co.uk

By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and a daily author for The Good Life France Magazine and web site.

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