Matthieu Blazy re-enchants Chanel in New York | EUROtoday
Gabrielle Chanel has in all probability by no means taken the metro in her life – and never solely as a result of crossing rue Cambon to go from the Ritz, the place she lived, to her trend home, at 31, did not actually justify the usage of it. Matthieu Blazy, alternatively, is in trendy life: it’s with a smile that he remembers his personal journeys on the metro in New York, a couple of minutes after presenting, on Tuesday December 2, within the Bowery station on the Lower East Side of Manhattan, his first assortment known as Métiers d’Art for the home of which he’s now the inventive director. ” I lived in New York: the subway is par excellence the place where you see the whole city, where the different social strata disappear. I met Spiderman, couples leaving the opera, in evening dresses and tuxedos, or students.“A “melting pot” as they used to say within the outdated days, which is life itself. And which is the metonymy of the style glowing with pleasure, good humor, playful sophistication, with which the designer takes on the complicated train consisting of celebrating these glorious expertise which, from the embroiderer to the pleater, contribute to the richness of Chanel. He does so with a smiling poetry, which infuses his topic with a vibrant depth.
A glance, seems to be
It thus declines within the plural and combines within the current – and the long run – the Chanel attract which we neglect that it maybe took to the streets for the primary time right here: “When Gabrielle Chanel came to New York in 1931, she realized on her way downtown that women who obviously did not wear Chanel had adopted the silhouette she was proposing. She took it as the greatest honor. And this also encouraged him, upon returning to France, to design more and more daywear. »… An equation which he seizes without departing from the freshness of his words and his determination to dress the women of his time. This is true of the first look, worn by the model Bhavita, whom he discovered a little over a year ago: denim, a bag, a T-shirt, a trucker sweater, flat shoes and yes, that’s it, in a burst of controlled evidence: reality is more beautiful in the eyes of Matthieu Blazy, especially when it is worked with precision and yet looks like nothing.
This is just as true of these large hand-painted skirts worn with black knits, of these slit and buttoned skirts revealing lingerie, of these “I love NY” T-shirts in embroidered silk made in a single piece, of the fluidity of a protracted black gown but in addition of the shine of leopard tweeds or silk astrakhans. And the designer thus clarifies his attachment to textile innovation: ” In arts and crafts, there is more than just embroidery. There is this ability to work with materials. Including cotton, which I really like for the lightness it brings and which Gabrielle Chanel introduced into sets in the Thirties. ”
Playing with clichés
No historicism, nonetheless, on this amébé music and in these proposals that may be worn in whole look or mismatched – ” That’s the whole idea of a wardrobe. ” – however a particular urge for food for enjoying with stereotypes and clichés ” often very fair here, from the Upper East side to the Lower East Side via Harlem “. An effervescent world of references, which accurately tumbles from a prepare getting into Bowery station, in a scenography labored with a theater legend, Richard Peduzzi. All underneath the eyes of main shoppers, of the Wertheimers, homeowners of the model, seated as typical within the final row of visitors, of Anna Wintour, but in addition of Deeda Blair, the last word incarnation of the stylish of the Swans of Fifth Avenue, of Tilda Swinton, Michael Stipe, Kristen Stewart, John Bon Jovi, and even Margaret Qualley and Asap Rocky, performers in Michel Gondry’s brief movie made to rejoice this second.
The luxurious of pleasure
A particular second, little doubt, because the strain is robust once we current a second present after a primary opus in October which was acquired with enthusiasm. Without doubt, the temperature rises once we strategy this continent as a result of, as Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel’s trend actions, factors out, “ The leading luxury market in the world remains the United States. The American economic situation remains very positive, and so do the prospects. But we don’t just come here because it’s a big market. In the writing of this new chapter in the strong history between Chanel and the United States, we can also read all the work of Matthieu Blazy on the entire house. New York through her eyes is a different New York, like Chanel through her eyes: there is not one tweed, there are tweeds. There is not one woman, there are women. The codes are still there, but interpreted differently with humor “like the baggage enjoying animals and the “urban jungle” of Manhattan, from the squirrel to the giraffe, but in addition the knits taking the form of Superman’s S to play the intertwined C’s emblematic of the home… And Bruno Pavlovsky continues: ” Matthieu shakes up while being respectful of know-how, he brings another way of working with these artistic crafts. It’s a real creative exchange.”
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And need too
A brand new power is thus launched which creates need for the model. Including for males… attracted by the primary collaboration with Charvet proposed by Matthieu Blazy in October and by the announcement of Asap Rocky as ambassador of the home on the eve of the New York trend present. An urge for food that Bruno Pavlovsky should nonetheless calm, with a smile. Matthieu will undoubtedly proceed to make advert hoc items for sure ambassadors, to suggest collaborations, and even particular orders. But Chanel will not be, basically, a males’s model.” We still come to know that certain models of shirts will be offered in large sizes… We almost feel, as a representative of the male gender, a little sadness. But we suddenly remember the words of Matthieu Blazy commenting on the finale of the soundtrack, Happy Days: ” We might have chosen to finish on a extra morose observe which might maybe replicate a sure actuality. But there may be poetry in celebrating being collectively “. Matthieu Blazy did not simply achieve making a exact and correct assortment: he reinvented the posh of pleasure. Chic has a smile.
https://www.lepoint.fr/mode-design/matthieu-blazy-reenchante-chanel-a-new-york-03-12-2025-2604606_265.php