The Perched Villages of the “Tuscan” Tarn | EUROtoday
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Step again by way of the centuries within the medieval perched Villages of the “Tuscan” Tarn. Gillian Thornton heads to La Tuscane Occitane.
One of the issues all of us need on vacation is obvious climate, however put Cordes-sur-Ciel in your itinerary and you can’t assist however hope for cloud. Well, the fitting form of cloud at any charge.
Cordes-sur-Ciel
Perched on a hilltop within the rolling countryside of the Tarn division, Occtinanie (previously Midi-Pyrenees), ‘Cordes-above-the-sky’ seems to drift above the clouds when early morning mist lingers within the Cérou valley beneath.
Classified among the many Most Beautiful Villages in France, Cordes-sur-Ciel is simply half an hour’s drive from my base within the UNESCO-listed metropolis of Albi. Not driving? Then get pleasure from a personal tour from Albi in a traditional 2CV with Le Tacot Cathare. Alternatively, take a day journey by practice from Toulouse alongside the ‘Bastides and Most Beautiful Villages’ line to Cordes-Vindrac, the place you may decide up a bus or taxi for the final 5km.
With transport of my very own, I park on the decrease slopes of the hill exterior Le Jardin des Paradis, open from May to September and categorised as a Remarkable Garden for its dense planting of unique species, its lily ponds, and various summer time program of concert events and exhibitions. Then I set off on foot to wind up by way of the decrease third of properties as soon as occupied by Cordes’ working lessons.
Small clusters of individuals had already settled right here round a priory when in 1222, Raymond VII, Count of Toulouse, inaugurated the bastide as a fortified industrial hub throughout the Albigensian Crusade towards the Cathars. Today it is likely one of the hottest of the Most Beautiful Villages in France within the south-west, so keep away from peak occasions if you wish to expertise Cordes at its most atmospheric.
Walk slowly up the cobbled streets – or take Le Petit Train – to go by way of rings of defensive partitions and metropolis gates that steadily expanded down the hill because the city grew in significance. At its top, Cordes was house to round 5,000 folks together with retailers, weavers and leatherworkers who carried out enterprise among the many pillars of the central coated market. Today, nonetheless, there are fewer than 1000 residents.
Look up on the facades of the grand Gothic homes overlooking La Halle on Grande Rue Raymond VII. La Maison du Fauconnier with its sculpted heads of canine and a falcon; the Maison du Grand Veneur carved with searching scenes; and slightly additional on, the Maison du Grand Ecuyer with its figures of legendary creatures. To a medieval viewers, each would have screamed wealth and energy by way of its references to the noble sport of searching.
Cordes-sur-Ciel is nicknamed “The city of 100 ribbed vaults” as a result of it has one of many largest concentrations of Gothic civil homes within the south of France, constructed between the top of the thirteenth and the start of the 14th centuries!
The prosperity of Cordes started to say no within the late 14th century throughout the plague and Hundred Years War, however fortunes improved once more over the following 200 years because of a thriving commerce in weaving, leatherwork, and pastela yellow plant whose leaves produce the well-known blue dye or woad.
And simply as Cordes buzzed with life in centuries previous, so it nonetheless does right this moment. The cobbled streets are house to craft companies promoting work and ceramics, leather-based items, jewellery and illuminated books. And do not miss the city’s must-try candy deal with, Les Croquantes. Made from sugar, almond, flour and egg whites, they’re deliciously crunchy and moreish, as I discover out at La Manufacture Gourmande the place I’m handled to a peep inside Noël Emmanuel’s cozy kitchen.
Castelnau-de-Montmiral
Leaving Cordes, I head to the other hillside, the Puech Haut, the place a tough observe off a rustic lane results in the traditional viewpoint throughout the valley. Then I proceed by way of the undulating Tuscan-style countryside to the second of the three Most Beautiful Villages on this north-western nook of the Tarn.
Castelnau-de-Montmiral proves equally fairly however noticeably quieter than Cordes with fewer companies to draw informal guests. But the tranquil streets exude a allure all their very own. Also based by Raymond VII as a strategic stronghold, Castelnau retains sections of its 13th century fortifications, though the medieval fort is lengthy gone.
But I’m nonetheless capable of see what the fort seemed like because of the superb free app, EnQuête which supplies an interactive tour to 6 emblematic communities within the Tarn – the Most Beautiful Villages of Castlenau, Cordes and Puycelsi, plus Gaillac, Lisle-sur-Tarn and Rabastens. Download at house in English to make use of earlier than your go to or as a digital tour information as you go.
I significantly love the insights and digital actuality scenes that EnQuête provides me to Castelnau’s superb Places des Arcades, fringed with timber-framed homes. Soak up the environment of the Tuesday morning market and perhaps linger over lunch at L’Auberge des Arcades.
Puycelsi
From Castelnau, it’s lower than 15km by way of La Tuscane Occitan to Puycelsi on the sting of the Grésigne Forest, one other strategic base fortified by you-know-who from Toulouse. Perched excessive on a hilltop with commanding views of the Vère valley, this Most Beautiful Village additionally retains sections of fortification, greater than 800 meters of ramparts encircling a maze of slim streets. Don’t miss the inside of Saint-Corneille Church, the ceiling lavishly painted in shiny blue and gold paying homage to Sainte-Cécile Cathedral in Albi.
Penne
Last cease on my Tarn village tour is Penne, not a lot for the village itself, however for the ruined medieval chateau that stands on a slim ridge excessive above the river Aveyron. Equally extraordinary is the story of the fort’s 21st century renaissance. At the age of 10, heritage architect Axel Letellier vowed throughout a household go to that he would at some point purchase the Forteresse de Penne, an episode captured on a house video clip that options within the wonderful introductory movie concerning the challenge.
Occupied for the reason that 11th century, this medieval marvel modified palms many occasions throughout the Cathar campaign and the Hundred Years War, belonging to everybody from Cathar supporters and the Counts of Toulouse, to the kingdoms of Aragon, France and England. And in 2006, Penne Castle entered a brand new part when it was purchased by Axel and his spouse Sophie.
After three years of important restoration, La Forteresse de Penne opened to the general public in 2010. Conservation and archaeological work are ongoing, little by little, with most of the artifacts found now displayed in a captivating interpretation heart that opened in 2024.
Whenever you go to, make certain to put on sturdy, snug footwear because the steep path from the reception desk is stony and uneven. But there isn’t any rush. Just let the views unfold as you climb constantly to the doorway gate. Once contained in the fort wall, I discover myself stopping often to benefit from the 360-degree view, take yet one more picture, and easily marvel at this extraordinary feat of medieval army engineering.
Axel and Sophie Letellier are decided to open up Penne’s historical past to the widest attainable viewers, so it’s good to see a faculty group having fun with demonstrations by costumed characters. Throughout July and August, guests can watch ‘medieval’ stonemasons at work; see demonstrations of development and fight abilities; and even get pleasure from nocturnal visits.
As I stroll again down the cobbled path, I change pleasantries with a gentleman carrying a big bundle of memento cotton baggage. Bound for the fort store, he seems to be Axel Letellier himself. Still as enthusiastic about Penne as he was as a 10-year-old and clearly nonetheless very hands-on.
By Gillian Thornton, one of many UK’s main journey writers and an everyday author for The Good Life France Magazine and web site.
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