Kougelhopf versus panettone: select your aspect! | EUROtoday

CIt can have escaped nobody’s discover that in current seasons, panettone has made a breakthrough in France, to the purpose of competing with logs. And to eclipse an equally tasty Alsatian specialty, additionally conventional: kougelhopf.

When it is time to begin making ready vacation meals, with Jean-François Piège’s recipes akin to microwave foie gras or caviar sea bass for instance, a easy query arises: which camp are you in? ? Between a movement of censure and an (umpteenth) new authorities, the talk agitated the editorial employees of the Point. Two of our journalists declare their love for his or her favourite deal with.

Kougelhopf, a dessert that brings individuals collectively

A curious period, when advertising and marketing imposes a dessert from overseas on houses, when its distant ancestor is relegated to the rank of a (barely contemptible) native curiosity… Unknown, kougelhopf? However, it has survived the centuries whereas its Italian rival was developed, in its present type, within the Twenties by a (genius) industrialist who had the concept of ​​reworking this “bread of the poor”, flat and arduous , right into a flagship of the meals business. The kougelhopf with the tough to pronounce title doesn’t deliver her again. Born within the kitchens of jap Europe a number of centuries in the past, it was imported to France by the crusaders coming back from the Ottoman Empire, or by the Jewish neighborhood, or by the Austrian Marie-Antoinette… Or once more by the Three Wise Men coming back from Bethlehem, the legend tells. We do not know. But over the centuries it has develop into an unmistakable image of Alsatian cultural wealth, which was as soon as given on particular events: weddings, baptisms, grape harvests, diplomatic items, and so on.

The final earthy dessert, kougelhopf requires endurance and know-how. Its dough, a brioche wealthy in butter and eggs, should rise slowly to develop its softness. Baked in a terracotta mould which retains the humidity of the dough, garnished with raisins macerated in kirsch and almonds organized within the grooves of the mould, it provides a texture that’s each ethereal and comforting, beneficiant, enhanced by a regal type, just like a crown. An genuine Christmas dessert, rooted in an historic tradition, which isn’t “eatable”, as they are saying in Alsace, however which “brings people together”.

Géraldine Woessner, editor-in-chief of the Society division

kougelhopfs tackle ebook:

• At Yann Couvreur, a well-known Parisian pastry chef, who has many different strings to his bow than his well-known fox creations, notably his particular person kouglofs, soaked in orange blossom syrup and flavored with rum.

• At dwelling Christine Ferber, Alsatian queen of jams primarily based in Niedermorschwihr (68), who produces a benchmark frozen kougelhopf.

Panettone: at Christmas, nothing (or nearly) solely at Christmas

Every yr, it is the identical factor: I am unable to look ahead to the massive day, to chunk into my first slice of panettone, to guage the softness of the raisins, the amount of the orange peels…. Let there be Christmas! Because, sure, I solely eat Panettone at Christmas and Epiphany. Sometimes I get somewhat overwhelmed. But I attempt to respect the custom of my individuals, Italians. I shudder after I see panettoni within the streets of France at Easter. No, no! At this time, it’s acceptable to devour “doves”, nothing however doves, one other brioche whose form is harking back to that of a chook. At Christmas, on the opposite aspect of the Alps, it is Panettone or Pandoro, from Verona. Everyone has their very own desire. For me, it is panettone, the Milanese model, however I do not say no to its Genoese variation, pandolce, simpler to make at dwelling. Panettone-pandoro-pandolce… In any case, this is sufficient to generate vigorous conversations across the desk, as a lot as a Juventus-AC Milan or a press release from Giorgia Meloni!

Important clarification: panettone isn’t a dessert! A dessert has to include cream, proper? In quick, at Christmas, we eat our dessert, then one or two hours later, we digest by savoring panettone, with somewhat espresso. And if there may be any left, we eat it for breakfast, as a snack… I all the time construct up a small inventory earlier than the vacations. I’m delighted that this product has gone international, reaching Paris. But I remorse that, as with pasta, many French individuals snub it. Even if it does extra for me!

Beatrice Parrino, deputy editor-in-chief of the Economy division

Panettones tackle ebook:

• At Christophe Louie, one of many artisans who has most popularized panettone in current instances. He opened his retailer in Paris in 2023 and provides a large number of recipes: conventional, espresso, chocolate-gianduja and even a savory model like cacio and pepe. He additionally makes pandoro.

• At Mitron Bakery, artisanal bakery and pastry store from three-star chef Mauro Colagreco, situated in Menton and Nice (06). Three variations obtainable: conventional, chocolate and, our favourite, the Menton lemon one, a delight that’s each cozy and tangy.

• At the Bvlgari Hotel Paris, whose catering provide is signed by the well-known Italian chef Niko Romito, three-starred on the opposite aspect of the Alps in his institution in Castel di Sangro, Reale. Two variations can be found, bought in a fantastic steel case: a basic with candied oranges and raisins and one with chocolate and candied fruits.