Hugo Roellinger, Christopher Coutanceau… The 8 classes to recollect from the document | EUROtoday

ECulinary bullition within the Grand Est this Monday, March 31 and extra significantly town of Metz, the place the annual ceremony of the Michelin information was held. The 2025 record fell: after the Castellet desk within the Var, led by Fabien Ferré and the Gabriel to Paris (Jérôme Banctel) final 12 months, two institutions have simply been sacred by the Red Guide.

The shell, close to Cancale and the restaurant Christopher Coutanceau, in La Rochelle – a return – are actually one of many 31 tables triple in France to the nice pleasure of their cooks, Hugo Roellinger and Christopher Coutanceau. This 12 months, the Bibendum had cultivated the key till the final second, in order that no concrete info had leaked. Promotions shock, oversight and different confirmations, this new document is a supply of a number of classes. Here they’re.

3 stars for Hugo Roellinger, the maturity of an important chef rewarded

Hugo Roellinger had entrusted it to us right here, just a few months in the past: “The third star is not my goal, but it would be a great reward, for my marine wife and I, for the teams, for Brittany …” This one has simply arrived and we think about the son of the three-star chief Olivier Roellinger rattling fulfilled after the announcement of his consecration. More than strolling within the footsteps of his father, Hugo Roellinger, elected cook dinner of the 12 months at Gault & Millau in 2022, has traced his personal path for a number of years and has reached maturity for a while.

His strategy is rightly rewarded by the Red Guide. At Château Richeux, in Saint-Méloir-des-Mondes (Ille-et-Vilaine), the one who launched the singular work on the finish of 2024 Correspondence Convene iodine, algae and spices on the rendezvous of a kitchen that celebrates the liquid factor. “The liquid is the living, the relationship to nature, to man, those who work here, those who come to eat confided to us. There is a notion of horizontality between all this. And a liquid, whatever the way it is poured, will always end up horizontally. »Intellectuals and complexes, his plates are not chichiteous or forbidden. They are quite the opposite: emotional, impactful and, above all, delicious.

Christopher Coutanceau, back to three stars: the roller coaster

Chef Christopher Coutanceau has just experienced an unprecedented roller coaster number and a sacred emotional elevator! To summarize, he will have won the third star in 2020, lost it in 2023 before winning it today! Bad tongues will say that the Michelin does not know what he wants, deny and discredit himself. The others that the guide follows the tables as closely as possible and shows the way to old demoted. When we know the weight of such a distinction in the economy of gastronomy, we imagine in any case that the chef felt a huge relief.

A single really new 3 -star restaurant: Michelin stingy

To be completely honest, we did not expect more but we will always be surprised: why is the Michelin guide also stingy in terms of three stars? It is almost always the same thing: one or two new three -star triple per year. In 2007, five establishments, including that of Anne-Sophie Pic in Valencia-today the only triple starry chef in France-had been promoted, but this only happened very exceptionally.

Of the more than 70 double -starred restaurants in France, a number deserve to go up to the upper floor. Some evidences: Jean-François Plage (Le Grand Restaurant, Paris), Alain Ducasse (Le Meurice, Paris), Olivier Nasti (Le Chambard, Kaysersberg) Yannick Alléno (La Table de Pavie, Saint-Émilion) or even Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère, La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil).

Bristol, gold goat … star stability

Last year, the announcement of the departure of Eric Frechon du Bristol and his three -star Epicurus table, launched a hen – –mowwest transfer window throughout France. Arnaud Faye, head of the gold goat in èze (Alpes-Maritimes), took over and signed, as we tell here, very pretty beginnings. Today, Epicurus has been confirmed to three stars, a progression for Faye, which had only two on the Riviera. Same continuity for the golden goat, precisely, reinforced with two macaroons. And even personal satisfaction for his new chef Tom Meyer, former from Ganite, a Parisian table haloed with a star. In Champagne, Christophe Moret, who arrived in Crayères in February 2024, also did the job and kept the two stars of his predecessor, Philippe Mille.

Top chef in force at the Michelin charts

Many former Top Chef candidates, whose sixteenth season recently started on M6, have just been celebrated by the Red Guide like Adrien Cachot (Vaisseau in Paris), Sarah Mainguy (Freia in Nantes), Tabata Mey (Ombellule in Lyon), Jean Imbert (La Palme d’Or à Cannes) or Fanny Rey (the hostel of Saint-Rémy). Brigade chief Philippe Etchebest also went on stage, he whose restaurant Bordeaux Maison Nouvelle receives a second star.

Should we see a kind of collaborative pact after the partnership established this year between the Michelin guide and Top Chef? The rumor will undoubtedly circulate but the allocation of stars to former candidates does not date from today (Mory Sacko, Mallory Gabsy, Camille Delcroix, Victor Mercier, Stéphanie Le Quellec and many others) and the string still seems very big. Not very credible!

Sushi and oversights

We have already told it in The pointFrance is the other country in the sushi and the Michelin guide visibly shares this opinion! This year, several Japanese counters are honored: Hakuba of Arnaud Donckele and Takuya Watanabe gleaned his first star and Sushi Shunei takes it… two years after having lost it. Two other tables of the genre are rewarded: the Abyss Monte-Carlo by Yannick Alléno and Sushi Yoshinaga, both doubly starred.

If each year, the Michelin guide manages to reveal talents, he also forgets to reward others, in a rather incomprehensible way. We think in particular of the dairy of Édouard Chouteau, in Lille, always without a star, the Mirande of Florent Pietravalle in Avignon, blocked for a long time while it has been worth two as well as to the other addresses, mentioned above, which deserve three.

Emotion Bernard Pacaud

To uncover



The kangaroo of the day

Answer

During the ceremony this night, a prize for the chief mentor was awarded to Bernard Pacaud, emblematic chief of Ambroisie in Paris, three stars since 1988. Which went on stage together with his spouse Danièle, very moved, and has acquired a broadly deserved standing whereas we nonetheless ignore who will likely be his successor Place des Vosges. Trained from the age of 14 with the legendary mom Brazier in Lyon, then alongside Claude Peyrot in Vivarois, Bernard Pacaud taught the career to an incalculable nomble of younger cooks.

The tribute to the enormous Michel Guérard

Fabulous French chef, Michel Guérard, three -star within the meadows of Eugénie and inventor, specifically, of slimming delicacies, died final August, leaving an enormous void on the earth of gastronomy. Gwendal Poullennec had a thought for this range large. “More than a cook, he was a poet, literate and esthete. Generous and playful, his humor and his ability to bring together were unanimous. He created a house in Eugénie les bains in his image: sweet, elegant, pensive. Michel Guérard is not lacking only in the world of cooking, we are missing … But even today he continues to bring us together ”. A couple of weeks earlier than his loss of life, Michel Guérard had given us an interview by which he advised, all through his profession, to have “let fate”.