Can oysters solely be eaten in months with an “R”? Each time autumn rolls round, this concept is strengthened as we’re instructed it is the beginning of oyster season.
From mid-September, an array of occasions spring as much as kick off oyster season, together with Scotland’s three-day Stranraer Oyster Festival and the glamorous London Oyster Championships which occur at a swanky Mayfair seafood restaurant.
So it is no surprise that many people within the UK assume we will solely eat oysters between September and April. But is that this true? Actually, no.
Oyster season, and the concept we will solely eat oysters in months with an “R” (ie the colder months) applies solely to native oysters (Ostrea edulis), that are indigenous to British and European waters. They’re typically known as European natives or European flat oysters, due to their spherical, flat shells.
However, most oysters that we truly devour within the UK are rock oysters, often known as Pacific oysters (Crassostrea gigas). This is a unique species of oyster. It’s native to Japanese waters, however for many years rock oysters have been cultivated in Britain and Europe. Recognizable by their longer, rougher shells, they’re accessible all 12 months spherical – and there are fabulous rock oysters from France.
“French oysters tend to be plumper, creamier and sweeter,” says oyster aficionado Luke Rees-Oliviere who can fortunately eat 30 oysters in a single sitting.
As an Oyster Master at Wright Brothers seafood eating places, Rees-Oliviere delivers oyster masterclasses during which he shares his experience, so he’s properly positioned to speak about French oysters – and the right way to eat them.
“I started at Wright Brothers in 2016, working with one of the best oyster shuckers in the country. I helped him shuck oysters and we always talked about oysters – that’s how it all began,” says Rees-Oliviere who’s been an Oyster Master for 3 years.
There are presently three Wright Brothers eating places, in Borough Market, South Kensington and Battersea. However, earlier than COVID there have been 5 – and every one had an Oyster Master. Rees-Oliviere discovered from all of them.
So, what makes French oysters so particular? Apparently, it is all concerning the “merroir”. Rees-Oliviere explains: “When wine enthusiasts talk about wine, they refer to the terroir – so the soil, the sun, the way the grapes are harvested – all these factors have a huge effect on the wine. It’s the same with oysters, only it’s all about the water, so rather than terroir, we call it merroir.”
Rees-Olivier explains that for oysters, the elements that make up the ocean embrace the temperature of the water, the energy of the present, the plankton and algae the oysters are consuming, and the way the oysters are taken care of, when it comes to farming strategies. “All these factors contribute to the merroir, which determines how the oyster tastes,” says Rees-Olivier.
It’s these variations in sea that make rock oysters from France distinctly totally different from rock oysters from the UK or different waters. “In the UK, the water is generally colder, with higher levels of salt, whereas in France the water temperature is higher and the oysters are more commonly surrounded by shallow bays, so there’s a sweeter water influence.”
This makes French oysters creamier and sweeter, and usually much less salty than these from different oyster-producing international locations – particularly the UK and Norway,” explains Rees-Oliviere.
The setting is not the one affect. According to Rees-Oliviere: “The creaminess of the oyster is usually linked to the time of year. So, they’ll usually be creamier in summer, as they spawn in the higher water temperature. However, the French like to cultivate their oysters to get that creamy texture all year round.”
While rock oysters from France are greatest recognized for being candy and creamy, they do fluctuate relying on the oyster producer (or oyster home) – and every oyster home will produce various kinds of oyster.
For Rees-Oliviere, the highest French oyster homes are Maison Gillardeau, Jêrôme Miet, and La Famille Boutrais
“Gillardeau are world renowned. They’re one of the most prestigious oyster houses in the world. Their oysters are delicate and sweet with a bit of creaminess. They work incredibly hard, all year round, to consistently give their oysters that flavor profile,” says Rees-Oliviere, including that oysters from Maison Gillardeau will at all times have a particular “G” on the shell.
“Jérôme Miet is another big name. He’s well known for his Fine de Claire, Spéciale, and La M. These are different types of oysters, grown in different places, and La M are the best of his crop – and the most expensive,” says Rees-Oliviere, describing La M oysters as plump, creamy and candy.
However, not all French oysters are cultivated for a candy style. “La Famille Boutrais have fantastic oysters called Ostra Regal, which are similar to Gillardeau oysters, but they also have Celine which are similar to oysters from Jersey, so they’re very oceanic,” explains Rees-Oliviere, whose favourite French oyster is the Celine.
There’s typically uncertainty round the right way to eat oysters, so listed below are Rees-Oliviere’s high suggestions:
Undressed is Best
For saltier oysters, just like the Celine and the Fine Claireshallot vinegar and lemon work properly – that makes them pop. But with sweeter oysters, like Gillardeau and Jérôme Miet’s La M, it is higher to have them with none dressing. If you place vinegar, spice, and even lemon on them, you take away from these lovely pure flavors.
The oyster farmer works onerous to get their oysters to style like this and you will not get that sweetness should you drench them in Tabasco. So, while you wish to style the pure merroir of the oyster, have it bare.
High and Dry
Go for white wine and glowing wine that is gentle, crisp and refreshing, but excessive in acidity, to refresh your palate whilst you’re consuming oysters. Champagne is a superb pairing. The Champagne area is near the realm of France that produces so many lovely oysters, and when it comes to the flavour profile, it is sensible as a result of champagne typically has a excessive acidity. A dry gin martini can also be an excellent name, and oysters with a Bloody Mary is the final word hangover treatment!
Chew to Taste
There’s a delusion that oysters ought to be swallowed entire, however truly, we should always positively chew them. Back within the 1800s, oysters had been a poor man’s meals. There weren’t any fridges, so if oysters had been out all day, on a stall within the solar, they in all probability weren’t too recent, and folks might need swallowed them entire to get them down shortly. Now, although, we wish to style the oysters, and should you swallow them entire, with out chewing, you may miss out on that – all you may get when it comes to taste is the brine.
Waterworks
First sip the brine that is within the shell. This is the water that the oyster has come from – and there is additionally just a little little bit of the essence of the oyster in there.
Next, separate the oyster from its shell by severing the muscle. Do this in a single clear scrape. People are sometimes given oyster forks, however the easiest way is to make use of a teaspoon and are available at it from the aspect of the oyster shell. Aim to get as clear a lower as potential, so there is not any residue left on the shell – you need the entire oyster in a single mouthful, together with the muscle, for its texture, sweetness and protein.
At this level, the oyster will launch a second wave of water – that is way more of the essence of the oyster so you may decide up extra flavors. Sip that, then eat the oyster – and bear in mind to chew!
Where to seek out French oysters in London
Wright Brothers
Battersea Seafood Restaurant: Jérôme Miet’s La Spéciale de Claire – three for £17 or six for £34
Borough Market: French oyster choice – six for £30.50
La Famille Boutrais’s Celine and Jérôme Miet’s La Spéciale de Claire – three for £14
South Kensington: Jérôme Miet’s La Spéciale de Claire – three for £17 or six for £34
Scott’s
Mayfair: Jérôme Miet’s Speciales de Claire – six for £36 or 12 for £72
Gillardeau – six for £39 or 12 for £78
Richmond: Gillardeau – six for £38 or 12 for £76
The Seafood Bar, Soho:
Gillardeau No. 3 – six for £38.50
Fine de Claire No. 2 – six for £27
The Sea, The Sea, Chelsea:
Maison Gillardeau’s Tia Maraa – six for £42
David Hervé’s Boudeuse – six for £42
Furness Oyster Bar:
Maison Gillardeau’s Tia Maraa
Gillardeau Specials
[prices on request]
Wright Brothers oyster masterclasses happen twice a month thewrightbrothers.co.uk
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